Saturday, January 16, 2010

[haflingerfriends] Fencing - one important caution!

T-posts will work between gates, but they MUST be capped with one of several types of safety caps. Many people use the type that also holds the hot wire. Hot wire is a must for horses, somewhere on the fencing. We have used mostly steel fenceposts because we had them, with either chain link fabric, horse fence(non-climb) or field fence, with the smaller spaces to the bottom. Always hot wire near the top, and maybe also butt height.
When we had a top rail made of steel (my husband welds) we only put hot wire about mid way to stop rubbing, which will destroy the best wire fence. Right now our horse fence has been deformed at the top by the young deer, who have trouble jumping it. I have recently moved the hot wire (which is not hot because we have no horses in the pasture) below the top of the wire, to make it easier for the younger deer to get over. I do not use the capper type with a slot for hot wire, I use the rubber tops for the t-posts, which stay on better.
If using t-posts, you need a stay about every 100 feet. That is 2 adjacent t-posts, with one or two diagonals between them, or one diagonal and a horizontal bar at the top. If using bigger posts, you still need stays every so often. A gate, braced at both sides by a diagonal, can work as a stay. To get your fence fabric tight, you must have strong posts at the ends, or better yet every so often.
We are expecting a large storm this next week, the one coming into California.
Geri in southern Oregon.

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