The short purchase length of the Kimberwick is what keeps the bit from confusing the horse when direct reined.
One little trick I came up with to add weight and better balance to the bit, (causing the horse to stay bent at the poll), is to make leather "shanks" out of the narrow Weaver slobber straps by placing them through the lower uxter slots of the D ring on the Kimberwick.
One half of the strap I shave down so it will fit through the slot.
I drill and place a chicago screw up close to the bit and one more down close to the rein hole in the strap. This makes it just stiff enough to work as a shank when neck reining but when direct reining it flexes enough to become part of the rein. The weight it adds requires the horse to be bent at the poll to keep the port comfortable in his mouth.
I usually use a sport (1/2" rope) rein with this setup. I buy the fleet farm, braided utility rope and pull the center cords out of it so that it lays a little flatter. It comes in about any color you can imagine.
Just another note is that any horse that is used in a shanked bit should be taught to vertically flex in a snaffle bit before advancing to a shanked bit. Otherwise the horse will often throw their head in fighting the bit. Then the owner goes to a tom thumb style bit to "fix" that problem not realizing the danger they are putting themselves in.
Steve
http://fixabrokehorse.com
"cr8tivemommy" <hrhorses@...> wrote:
>
> Hi group, I promised that I'd post how our new horse Nikkado is doing after switching him from a western curb to a Kimberwicke. He is going lovely in it, and has taken anything I've asked of him in a willing attitude. We are still in the arena together, as he's a new horse & I don't feel we have figured each other out enough to be trail safe but so far I'm really pleased with him using the Kimberwicke.
>
> Thanks again for the excellent advice!
>
> Jen in MN
>
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